By Mike Frazier Setting antlers for a whitetail deer mount can be simple when we are provided with a full skull plate. Trim the skull plate so that the frontal portion of the bone rests about 1/8 of an inch below the front edge of the mannikin. This 1/8″ compensates for the amount of skin that is typically shaved off during the tanning process. Leave about 1/2″ to 3/8″ of bone on the back of the skull to maintain the proper angle of the antlers. How do we set the antlers if we are provided with only a partial skull plate? What if the back of the skull is missing? The front edge rule still applies. To establish the pitch of the antlers, look for these two things; first, whitetail antlers have a tendency for the first few inches of the main beam to follow the profile angle of the muzzle. Secondly, by establishing a line from the tip of the nose on the mannikin (this point is where the palate rests under the nose), through the front corner of the eye, extending the line to the back of the head. This will establish the level for the lower part of the antler burr. This “rule of thumb” is only a tool, we should remember that when dealing with nature, “always” and “never” are words we should not attach to our views. This rule does not apply to other species of deer, i.e., mule deer and black tail deer. These deer follow a different “rule of thumb”.
To apply most types of soil, sand, or grit to foam bases, there is a very simple technique. First, sand the base to create a rough surface. This is done to ensure good contact between the adhesive and base. Next mix up polyester resin and catalyst in container. Apply it to the base surface with a paint brush. Once the base has been fully painted with the resin, take the soil in your hand and scatter on base. There is no need to be picky about the quantity of dirt placed on the base, only the dirt that actually comes in contact with the resin will stick. Let this set for a few minutes, then turn over the base so that the excess dirt will fall off. Turn base upright, apply more soil material and let dry. After it has dried shake off any excess dirt. To apply artificial plants with stems to base all you need to do is drill a hole in the base, clip the stem so it will set down into the hole at the proper depth. Mix up either an amount of bondo or fiberglass resin, fill the hole you have drilled with this material for stem. Push stem down into hole, move plant into its proper position. Let dry. To apply moss type materials to bases you just need to do three simple steps. To put wood pieces onto foam bases you can do one of two things. You can trim foam so wood will set down on the bottom of the base and use wood screws through the bottom of base into the wood. You can also apply bondo mixture to the bottom and let dry.
Gravity and Alignment By Bill Lancaster Proper skin alignment is essential for a top-quality mount. The anatomy of the skin, hair patterns, change of color and the texture reflects the anatomy and musculature of the form, down the minute facial features. Gravity, and the process of applying the skin, will move the alignment, and this can be a cause of drumming in the finished mount. When you are sewing down the neck and you reach the backboard, do not trim the cape yet. Pull the skin up and forward on the neck – you will see that your sewing job isn’t done yet! By rotating the skin forward over the shoulders, you can gain more skin into the sternum and armpit areas. You will find that you may have to sew 1-1/2″ to 2-1/2″ more for final adjustment. The head also needs to have the skin lifted and brought forward into position. The sear skin can be taxied toward the tip. The ears, head and neck are all cone shaped. A small amount of skin taxied from a large area to a smaller area will give you more skin in width. Keeping all of this information of anatomy, hair patterns, change of color, texture, and gravity will help you be more successful in a quality mount. Bill Lancaster is an award-winning master taxidermist and sculptor with Research Mannikins
Tips and Tricks
Fragile hides such as Fox and Antelope slip easily for 3 reasons: The ideal situation for tanning a fragile skin would be to: Mix up the following pickle: Leave the raw, quick-fleshed skin in this solution overnight. Remove the skin and shave it. Next, rinse thoroughly in 1oz of baking soda per gallon of water. Tumble the skin in hardwood sawdust or towel dry until the skin is in a damp, dry state. Heat Liqua-Tan by immersing a quart bottle in a plastic container filled with hot water. Using a paint brush, paint skin with warm Liqua-Tan. If you wish to leave the cartilage in the ears, reverse ears, and paint Liqua-Tan on the fur side of the cartilage to ensure good penetration. After applying Liqua-Tan to the hair side of the ears, invert them back to the skin side. Roll the hide up and leave it at room temperature for at least 8 hours, preferably overnight, then freeze or mount immediately. Hints:
Liqua-Tan can be used many different ways. The following is a simple, yet effective method that we have used with success: Note: This whole operation should be done at room temperature for best results. There is virtually no shrinkage with Liqua-Tan therefore reducing the need for pins, etc. Liqua-Tan allows good stretchability and no hair slippage if done using the method we have described.
Liqua Tan is a complete and permanent tan that is fast drying and compatible with paste. It has excellent stretch and sets hair immediately. There is no oily mess, and it is easy to use and reduces shrinkage to almost zero. Liqua Tan can be applied and mounted the same day. A terrific tanning product that is used by many leading taxidermists. Below are step-by-step instructions on how to use Liqua-Tan. Liqua Tan Instructions
by Mark McLain Jaw Juice was developed by Mohr Specialties a few years back and seriously does just what the name says. It’s the ultimate adhesive when attaching rubber artificial tongues down inside an open jaw–it will never come out! But is Jaw Juice just for tongues? Not really! Jaw Juice is an adhesive that was developed to specifically work on rubber and plastic, i.e., tongues and jaws. The odds are that you probably work with many other items in your shop that are rubber and/or plastic. Sometimes you need to bond them together. Reach for the Jaw Juice! Research Mannikins Senior Taxidermists and Product Development Specialist Mark McLain is also a working taxidermist. In his shop, Mark has had numerous opportunities to experiment with alternate benefits of an adhesive like Jaw Juice. “First let me say that some of the great benefits of Jaw Juice is that it remains flexible when fully cured,” states Mark. “In addition, it dries clear, and can be painted when cured. These are fantastic when working on projects in my shop.” Mark goes on to say that he has used Jaw Juice for many other purposes than what it is stated to be for, with outstanding results. Here are just a few of the uses that Mark has completed, in his own words: Earliner Adhesive As an earliner adhesive, it works great on plastic, paper, and fiber forms alike. First, you want to make sure that the liner fits the ear skin with ease, and make sure that all oil residue is out of the ear skin. I will soak the ear skin in acetone or wipe it down with thinner to remove any remaining oil residue. Once you know that the liner will fit exactly like you desire, apply Jaw Juice to the inside of the liner and sparingly to the back. Next, dampen the surface with a dab of water. This will make the surface a bit slick and easier to insert the liner into the skin. Insert the liner and taxi everything into position. Work the edges of the ear to fill any void spots around the outside rim of the ear. Now, make sure your upper lobe is in position and work the interior gently. Press any excess around to make the surface consistent in thickness. The Jaw Juice will start to get firm in around 15 to 20 minutes. If any is leaking through small holes that were missed when prepping, use a small brass brush or rag with a small amount of acetone to wipe it out before it cures. This method works super on the new 3-D ears too! Small Habitat Objects Jaw Juice works great for applying small objects like rocks, sticks, cones, or just about any small habitat object into, or onto a base. Why use Jaw Juice over a hot glue or something that dries quicker? The simple fact is that Jaw Juice remains flexible and dries clear. If you want to apply an object to a vertical surface, it won’t run like many other resins or adhesives. Bird Feet Try a small dab of Jaw Juice to fill the holes of birds feet after you inject them. Works great! Saliva Jaw Juice works incredible when making saliva or saliva droplets off the end of a tongue. You can whip air bubbles into it and apply it where you want it, and it will stay there. Dries with the air bubbles intact and looks totally real. If you choose, you can add some color by inserting a drop of paint and it will dry and remain flexible. Leather Try using Jaw Juice when applying your material or leather to the back of your next pedestal mount. Simply pre-make a template of the shape of your pedestal back using paper and make sure it fits well before you cut your material or leather. Then apply Jaw Juice onto the back of the mannikin and spread it around so that you cover the entire surface. Place your leather onto the back and press it down, moving it around until the material or leather is exactly where you want it. Let it dry and the result will be perfectly smooth and permanently attached! According to Mark, it is very important to remember, when in doubt, experiment, and experiment with something that is not final. “You will be surprised at what you will come up with to use Jaw Juice,” states Mark. “I must have a tube in my shop, or I am what they call LOST!”If you come up with other ways to use Jaw Juice, drop us a line and tell us about it. We will share it with the rest of our industry.
Lifesize (A, B, C) Measure before skinningOn some -55 cougar forms, the 4th measurement is the chest, and the 5th is the belly. 1/2 Lifesize
Game Heads (A,B,E,F,G) Measure before skinning(C,D) Measure on meat after skinning Swelled Neck
