To apply most types of soil, sand, or grit to foam bases, there is a very simple technique. First, sand the base to create a rough surface. This is done to ensure good contact between the adhesive and base. Next mix up polyester resin and catalyst in container. Apply it to the base surface with a paint brush. Once the base has been fully painted with the resin, take the soil in your hand and scatter on base. There is no need to be picky about the quantity of dirt placed on the base, only the dirt that actually comes in contact with the resin will stick. Let this set for a few minutes, then turn over the base so that the excess dirt will fall off. Turn base upright, apply more soil material and let dry. After it has dried shake off any excess dirt. To apply artificial plants with stems to base all you need to do is drill a hole in the base, clip the stem so it will set down into the hole at the proper depth. Mix up either an amount of bondo or fiberglass resin, fill the hole you have drilled with this material for stem. Push stem down into hole, move plant into its proper position. Let dry. To apply moss type materials to bases you just need to do three simple steps. To put wood pieces onto foam bases you can do one of two things. You can trim foam so wood will set down on the bottom of the base and use wood screws through the bottom of base into the wood. You can also apply bondo mixture to the bottom and let dry.
by Mark McLain Jaw Juice was developed by Mohr Specialties a few years back and seriously does just what the name says. It’s the ultimate adhesive when attaching rubber artificial tongues down inside an open jaw–it will never come out! But is Jaw Juice just for tongues? Not really! Jaw Juice is an adhesive that was developed to specifically work on rubber and plastic, i.e., tongues and jaws. The odds are that you probably work with many other items in your shop that are rubber and/or plastic. Sometimes you need to bond them together. Reach for the Jaw Juice! Research Mannikins Senior Taxidermists and Product Development Specialist Mark McLain is also a working taxidermist. In his shop, Mark has had numerous opportunities to experiment with alternate benefits of an adhesive like Jaw Juice. “First let me say that some of the great benefits of Jaw Juice is that it remains flexible when fully cured,” states Mark. “In addition, it dries clear, and can be painted when cured. These are fantastic when working on projects in my shop.” Mark goes on to say that he has used Jaw Juice for many other purposes than what it is stated to be for, with outstanding results. Here are just a few of the uses that Mark has completed, in his own words: Earliner Adhesive As an earliner adhesive, it works great on plastic, paper, and fiber forms alike. First, you want to make sure that the liner fits the ear skin with ease, and make sure that all oil residue is out of the ear skin. I will soak the ear skin in acetone or wipe it down with thinner to remove any remaining oil residue. Once you know that the liner will fit exactly like you desire, apply Jaw Juice to the inside of the liner and sparingly to the back. Next, dampen the surface with a dab of water. This will make the surface a bit slick and easier to insert the liner into the skin. Insert the liner and taxi everything into position. Work the edges of the ear to fill any void spots around the outside rim of the ear. Now, make sure your upper lobe is in position and work the interior gently. Press any excess around to make the surface consistent in thickness. The Jaw Juice will start to get firm in around 15 to 20 minutes. If any is leaking through small holes that were missed when prepping, use a small brass brush or rag with a small amount of acetone to wipe it out before it cures. This method works super on the new 3-D ears too! Small Habitat Objects Jaw Juice works great for applying small objects like rocks, sticks, cones, or just about any small habitat object into, or onto a base. Why use Jaw Juice over a hot glue or something that dries quicker? The simple fact is that Jaw Juice remains flexible and dries clear. If you want to apply an object to a vertical surface, it won’t run like many other resins or adhesives. Bird Feet Try a small dab of Jaw Juice to fill the holes of birds feet after you inject them. Works great! Saliva Jaw Juice works incredible when making saliva or saliva droplets off the end of a tongue. You can whip air bubbles into it and apply it where you want it, and it will stay there. Dries with the air bubbles intact and looks totally real. If you choose, you can add some color by inserting a drop of paint and it will dry and remain flexible. Leather Try using Jaw Juice when applying your material or leather to the back of your next pedestal mount. Simply pre-make a template of the shape of your pedestal back using paper and make sure it fits well before you cut your material or leather. Then apply Jaw Juice onto the back of the mannikin and spread it around so that you cover the entire surface. Place your leather onto the back and press it down, moving it around until the material or leather is exactly where you want it. Let it dry and the result will be perfectly smooth and permanently attached! According to Mark, it is very important to remember, when in doubt, experiment, and experiment with something that is not final. “You will be surprised at what you will come up with to use Jaw Juice,” states Mark. “I must have a tube in my shop, or I am what they call LOST!”If you come up with other ways to use Jaw Juice, drop us a line and tell us about it. We will share it with the rest of our industry.
Apply a small thin coat of adhesive glue to the bottom of the lichen with a smooth palate knife, small paintbrush, or small spatula. Attach the lichen to your surface area by applying soft pressure with hand/fingers. If there is any excess glue residue, remove it by taking a small paintbrush with a small amount of water and slowly clean away excess glue from around the edges. Wait approximately 1/2 hour and reapply soft pressure to lichen. If necessary, wait an additional 1/2 hour and reapply pressure or until lichen is permanently in place. Works best at, or above 70 degrees as this helps the material become more pliable. Do not apply direct heat to the lichen as this will cause irreversible damage. Ensure that the surface area you are fastening the lichen to is clean and dry. Any questions, please contact Dan Lee at Artist’s Touch 1-928-632-8091 About the product: Artist’s Touch is made of formulated material that is water resistant and durable in strength and rigidity, along with the capability to be formed to almost any surface area. The lichen itself is of museum quality and will enhance your artwork to show a very natural setting that will hold up to close examination or scrutiny.
By Mark McLain When beginning a project that requires a base, I always try and find a commercially available base before creating my own custom base. This saves me lots of time, and in doing so, saves me money. Most of the bases that are made by suppliers, are manufactured in foam. Usually, foam variety table and floor bases have a bottom board pre-installed that allows the base to sit flat when the piece is complete. Sometimes, foam bases have shelves in specific areas of the base where the mannikin leg rods or wires are to be secured. For this same reason, almost all wall hung foam bases have a wooden shelf inside of the piece. When I use a commercially manufactured base, I first determine where the mannikin rods or wire will go into the surface of the base. You can either mark the spots with a pen, or simply press the actual rods or wires down into the base. When you do this, you will create the guides you will need to drill the holes. Once this is done, I drill my rod holes and then set the mannikin into place onto the base, pushing the rods or wires through the drilled holes. With a floor or table base, I then take a countersink bit and countersink the underside of the base where the holes come through. This allows the nuts and washers to be applied to the leg rods of your mannikin. Once everything looks good for position, with the mannikin still sitting on the base, I remove any extra threaded rod that is not needed. If the mannikin being mounted uses wire, I cut a groove into the board so that the wire is easily bent over and stapled into the groove. It’s a good idea to pre-drill your base before you do any finish work. Make sure the base is going to fit the mannikin and that your attachment points will be secure. If you are using a wall hung base, the same techniques are used for marking and pre-drilling through the pre-installed board (shelf) within the base. Also, you will need to determine the distance down through the foam to the board. Take that measurement, and on the backboard, cut a hole through that will be underneath the installed shelf. You will need to cut a hole large enough so that you can dig out the foam under the shelf and then will be able to apply the nuts and washers easily. This access hole will not be visible when the wall mount is complete. Once you have the base so it will accept the mannikin with ease, you can proceed with your finish work and create a unique base. Most foam bases have some sort of a seam or seams. These will need to be cleaned up. I take a fine toothed file and simply file down the seam until it is smooth. Then, I mix up some plaster and add a small amount of matching tempera. When you add water to this, the plaster should result in a matching color mix. Take a damp cloth and wipe this over the seams and then texture the area as needed to match the texture of the foam rock. Once this dries, you are ready to complete your finish work. When finishing up a foam rock base, some artists like to apply a catalyst resin and then throw on some sand, thus creating a fairly smooth looking base. When you do this, apply a resin that is catalyzed fairly hot and after you apply your sand, simply dump off the excess. If needed, apply more resin on specific spots, re-apply sand, shake off and finally let cure. You can find sand in many different colors and even different types. If you want to have stumps, sticks, or any hard wooden products on your finished base, install them before you apply the resin and sand. A simple route to take is to use a texture-type paint, such as Fleck Stone, which is a spray system that offers a variety of textured looks. Some artists even like to use an airbrush and paint finish colors and highlights to achieve the final look. Another way is to cover your commercial foam rock with a thin layer of rock mix, while using tempera paint to colorize the mix. This method is very durable when it completely dries and cures. It makes a super looking texture and can be smooth or rough, depending on what you like. Rock mix comes in three different textures and works very easily. I believe that the most important part of using a commercially manufactured foam base is to understand that it probably isn’t ready “right out of the box.” Experiment a little with some easy finishing techniques and your commercial base can take on a look that both you and your customer will really like. Commercial bases save you time and money and a lot of headaches! Good luck on your next base project.
