By Mike Frazier Setting antlers for a whitetail deer mount can be simple when we are provided with a full skull plate. Trim the skull plate so that the frontal portion of the bone rests about 1/8 of an inch below the front edge of the mannikin. This 1/8″ compensates for the amount of skin that is typically shaved off during the tanning process. Leave about 1/2″ to 3/8″ of bone on the back of the skull to maintain the proper angle of the antlers. How do we set the antlers if we are provided with only a partial skull plate? What if the back of the skull is missing? The front edge rule still applies. To establish the pitch of the antlers, look for these two things; first, whitetail antlers have a tendency for the first few inches of the main beam to follow the profile angle of the muzzle. Secondly, by establishing a line from the tip of the nose on the mannikin (this point is where the palate rests under the nose), through the front corner of the eye, extending the line to the back of the head. This will establish the level for the lower part of the antler burr. This “rule of thumb” is only a tool, we should remember that when dealing with nature, “always” and “never” are words we should not attach to our views. This rule does not apply to other species of deer, i.e., mule deer and black tail deer. These deer follow a different “rule of thumb”.
Gravity and Alignment By Bill Lancaster Proper skin alignment is essential for a top-quality mount. The anatomy of the skin, hair patterns, change of color and the texture reflects the anatomy and musculature of the form, down the minute facial features. Gravity, and the process of applying the skin, will move the alignment, and this can be a cause of drumming in the finished mount. When you are sewing down the neck and you reach the backboard, do not trim the cape yet. Pull the skin up and forward on the neck – you will see that your sewing job isn’t done yet! By rotating the skin forward over the shoulders, you can gain more skin into the sternum and armpit areas. You will find that you may have to sew 1-1/2″ to 2-1/2″ more for final adjustment. The head also needs to have the skin lifted and brought forward into position. The sear skin can be taxied toward the tip. The ears, head and neck are all cone shaped. A small amount of skin taxied from a large area to a smaller area will give you more skin in width. Keeping all of this information of anatomy, hair patterns, change of color, texture, and gravity will help you be more successful in a quality mount. Bill Lancaster is an award-winning master taxidermist and sculptor with Research Mannikins
Liqua-Tan can be used many different ways. The following is a simple, yet effective method that we have used with success: Note: This whole operation should be done at room temperature for best results. There is virtually no shrinkage with Liqua-Tan therefore reducing the need for pins, etc. Liqua-Tan allows good stretchability and no hair slippage if done using the method we have described.
Lifesize (A, B, C) Measure before skinningOn some -55 cougar forms, the 4th measurement is the chest, and the 5th is the belly. 1/2 Lifesize
Game Heads (A,B,E,F,G) Measure before skinning(C,D) Measure on meat after skinning Swelled Neck
